Perfect binding - PUR vs. Hot melt - PrintPlanet.com

Hi everyone,

We are perfect binding more and more jobs run on coated stocks. We've been doing hot melt glue, with mixed success. I'm interested to hear from others about how much better PUR is for this application. There's a lot of information out there which seems to suggest that PUR is the magic bullet for binding coated stocks. In terms of its adhesion ability to coated stocks, how much better is it really?

Thanks,

Matthew Larmour Why don't you bind some book blanks and get a page pull test done? Quantify how much better it is. I believe it's the real deal. The bindery we use has a dedicated line just for PUR, now that's committment!
You could get a page pull test done at RIT or GATF.
John Lind
Cranberry Township, PA
724-776- I have used both, and PUR is by far best on coated stock. It costs more and any product left in the pot can't be reheated and used like EVA can. You would first need to see if your type binder will be able to retro-fit a PUR system. Some binders allow for the systems to interchange on the same binder. Our Muller Martini did. You really need that versatility because hot melt EVA works great on uncoated, therefore you don't want the added cost of using PUR when it's not needed. But there's no doubt the integrity of the book is not compromised when using PUR. We also had success if the inside cover was flood aquas coated over the spine. We could never get EVA to stick sufficeintly to any coating on the spine.

No contest here, PUR for coated stock wins hands down. Needs a longer set time before 3 knife trimming, as it cures slower. Standard/Horizon offers a 4 clamp binder, the BQ470 which has tanks for both EVA and PUR.

We found a canadian company Pack-smart with a very good and affotable solution that eliminates ned for PUR. Our shophas 5 IGENs ,prior to install of packsmart plasma we struggled a lot, one year later problem does not exist.
I found a video clip on you tube, check it out:
http://youtu.be/Lvqlh4fadfg

We are currently miterfolding MDF and particle board panels using a Titebond II type PVA glue. The panel surface is HPL in almost all cases. We have been having good luck so far but there has been talk recently of doing this same operation using hotmelt PUR adhesive. I am preparing some test so I can see for myself but I would like to get some input from others as well. Has anyone out there had any luck miterfolding panels with hotmelt PUR?

If you want to learn more, please visit our website.

-Dude-

Jiwei contains other products and information you need, so please check it out.

Youre lucky, I just did this last month...Strength will not be a problem. We did some dry runs recently for samples and was able to stand (200Lbs) on the corner of the small box within 5 minutes of applying the adhesive. However, we had about 80 boxes to make that were finished on the inside and out and absolutely would have gotten smoked had we used PUR. There are 2 issues...1. The material itself is super thick and sets up fast. You could apply all of your glue and start folding only to find out that you are out of square due to excess glue in a joint. Once you fold the last part in, the 1st is already permanently bonded. = To the trash. You could get real good at it and make a bending jig which would likely solve that issue, but you still risk no chance for any realignment. Just be sure you are using a 91 or 91.5 degree bit to allow room for the material.
2. The stuff dries really fast and not easy to cleanup squeeze out if you need the interiors clean.
I love the pur for quick fixes, jigs, or trim on installs, but for me that's been the limit.
The only way I could see this working well is if you used it on the last piece to connect.

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