While I am somewhat famous for Dumb Question Mondays, I find it is now Thursday and I have a dumb question.
I recently purchased a used edge bander from a member here.
My question is as follows:
When I cut my ply sheets, depending on the quality of the plywood, I may get some ridges on the edge of the cut. These ridges run along with the plys of the wood. I think it is may be pulling the grain out as it cuts. Do these small ridges affect the automatic edge banding process or do the edges need to be sanded or milled to have a perfect edge?
I figure some of you guys may have seen this prior and have the right answer.
Thanks in advance and wish me luck in setting up my machine this week and hoping to run the first job this weekend.
Doug S
It depends on how rough your edge quality is. A little bit of "texture" helps the glue bond almost better than if it's super slick. If it gets to rough you can see the roughness through thin banding. A spiral or compression bit seems to give a little smoother cut than straight bits. I stay away from mdf, so I can't help there, but the dust on the mdf may prevent a good bond.
I know exactly what you're talking about. Some of that edge fuzz is so fiber-y and spongy that it's almost impossible to even sand it off and it sticks out 1/16-1/8" in some cases. I don't have an edge bander, so I can't help there, but I do manually edge band stuff and I always remove it as it will create a convex edge where the fuzz is really bad. I take a razor knife and cut it out. Lots of extra work though.
While I'm sure it happens some in Baltic Birch, I've never had poking out edge fuzz after cutting it.
Too many variables to say if you need to sand it or not. Do some tests and see if you get acceptable results.
Sometimes the grain pulls out, but it also compresses and then expands.
Using sharp tooling can help.
Can you do your final cut in an offset?
I ask because I was having edge quality problems and somebody pointed out that my software would let me make my final profile cut in an offset.
.015 works well. It gives a nice clean edge. I use spiral compression bits typically.
If not, they make oscillating edge sanders. I know adding a step isn't ideal.
An edgebander with a premill is on my wishlist. But for what I do that would be over the top.
You'd have to probably use a router with an edge guide, or a router table. Or get fancy with a vector path to allow the bit to first be lowered then cut along the edge, but you could try one of these: https://www.collinstool.com/tools/ply-prep-router-bit/
I normally only get this condition when I run pre-finished plywood. It seems like one of two plys inside pull or swell after they are cut. The edge finish is perfect otherwise.
I would not be against getting one of those ply-prep router bits and running them across a router table prior to banding. Just wondering if this was a common thing.
Thanks all for the feedback.
What is Roll Edge Banding and How Does it Differ from Self Edge?
Traditionally self-edge has been the standard edge finish in the toilet partition industry. This has led many designers to believe self-edge is their only option when writing their specifications and they must continue in the legacy of those who have come before. However, due to modern innovation of the edge banding processes, self-edge is commonly being replaced by a modernized method called roll type banding. This new technique alleviates many of the pain points found in self-edge while raising the quality and integrity of the toilet partition system.
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Self-Edge Banding – The Legacy Method
In the early days of toilet partition production, self-edge was the only method known to produce an acceptable edge match. The ability to source separate materials for every color and pattern of door was an impossible task. The logical option available was using the same material as the face of the component, leading to the term self-edge or selfsame edge.
Self-Edge Banding Can Either be Done by Machine or Hand by:
- Cutting narrow strips from the same sheet as the face sheets.
- Applying adhesive to the edge of the component.
- Securing the cut strip to the edge of the component.
- Completely covering the exposed raw edge, so as not to leave any gaps that may show as cracks in the finished component.
- Trimming the overhang off all four edges of the strip.
- Finishing the edge to remove burrs and sharp corners.
Cutting edges and faces from the same sheet of material provides the benefit of having a cohesive construction in the components of the partition system. Leading to near exact look, feel, wear, and performance no matter the environmental conditions.
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The most well-known reason not to specify self-edge is the infamous “Brown line” that is often unsightly and appears visually as a defect. The other con being the intensive labor process which contributes to a higher price point.
Roll Edge Banding – The Modern Method
In order to address the production and aesthetic limitations of self-edge banding. Manufacturers saw the modern day need to innovate. Optimized production processes led to the development of pre-made rolls of banding, which appears similar to most commercially available materials.
Roll Edge Banding is a Machine Process:
- A “pre-mill” station cuts a few thousandths of an inch, of the edge off of the component before the roll of banding is applied to provide a smooth edge for the banding to adhere too.
- The edge of the component is warmed prior to adhesive being applied.
- Adhesive is applied to the edge.
- A series of stations securely affix the banding to the component.
- The banding is trimmed, beveled, and buffed precisely to the component.
Roll edge banding often costs less and is a viable answer to the issue of the brown line. Due to it being a homogenous material, it leaves no visual lines or appearance of pick points. This makes it favorable from an aesthetic and longevity standpoint.
Are you interested in learning more about Custom Edge Banding? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!